Why You Should Visit Morocco’s Little-Known Climbing Paradise
This article originally appeared on Climbing
As my partner and I head out the door of our cozy guesthouse in Todra Gorge, we're greeted by spectacular sights and sounds. Soft rays of early morning sun reflect off village homes and storefronts. Meanwhile, the local call to prayer, a high-pitch vibrato chant, radiates from the mosque tower and echoes off of 1,000-foot rock walls.
Located on the southern side of the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco, Todra is one of the country's premier climbing destinations. It has something to offer for all skill levels, from roadside single-pitch sport routes to long multi-pitch adventures, some reaching over 1,600 feet tall. The purpose of our trip, however, is not to climb multi-pitch routes, but to enjoy the gorge’s easily accessible single pitches while basking in the unique Moroccan culture that sets the crag apart from other climbing destinations across the globe.
We walk along the shoulder of a winding road uncomfortably devoid of sidewalks, and meet up with our guide, Mimoun Goali, who is waiting for us outside of his guesthouse. A wiry man of middling height, Goali is all smiles and laughs. We take some of the gear off of his hands and begin the short approach towards the gorge, which is now glowing red from the first sunbeams of the day. Our first destination is one of the most popular sectors in the area, Plage Mansour. The crag is deservedly busy: situated in a lush palm grove, with a calm river separating it from the village, Plage Mansour is unlike any climbing area we've ever seen.
Goali tells us about the history of the crag as we rack up. The first sport routes in Todra were established by French and Spanish climbers in the 1970s. Consequently, much of the Gorge is separated by nationality to this day, with different areas reflecting the unique styles of the developers' home countries. The British areas, for example, are where you'll find the best trad routes.
Our warm-up route, the slabby Limonade (5.9), is a solid reddish limestone, and unbelievably grippy. We find our feet effortlessly sticking to the thinnest footholds, which is a good thing, considering big holds are few and far between.
The routes in this sector are mostly technical slabs and vertical climbing. You will, however, encounter steep sections, especially on the harder routes. Amiga Mia (5.11c), for example, is short and bouldery with an intense crux low on the route.
After tackling a few climbs each, the sun comes out from behind the clouds. It’s time for a break.
Goali hurries across the river to a nearby cafe and returns carrying a tray with a silver teapot and three small glasses. We sit underneath a date palm tree while he carefully pours foaming mint tea in the glasses, then pours it back into the pot, back into the glasses, back into the pot, repeating the process a few times before finally filling all the three glasses with steaming hot tea for good. This repetition not only ensures that the tea is mixed properly, but also serves to oxygenize the tea, creating a nice bubbly texture.
Tea-drinking is a ritual that Moroccans perform every day, without fail. Morocco is a Muslim country, which means they are prohibited from drinking alcohol. Instead of alcohol, tea is at the heart of all social interaction, and Moroccans often playfully refer to it as Berber whiskey.
As we sip our Berber whiskey under the tree, Goali tells us that he rarely guides Americans.
"It's mostly French and other Europeans who come to Morocco to climb," explains Goali. "It's rare to find Americans climbing here."
This information doesn't come as a big surprise to us given the distance between the US and Northern Africa. But still, I can't help thinking it's a shame that so few people from my home country get to experience the outstanding climbing and culture Morocco has to offer.
Most Americans I know plan their international climbing vacations to places like Squamish, Albarracin, or Fontainebleau. And while there's nothing wrong with those legendary areas, in my humble opinion, Morocco has something special about it, something that goes beyond just climbing.
A good climbing trip is just as much about what happens in between climbing as it is about the climbing itself. Walking through mazes of fantastical bazaars, sharing desert campgrounds with camels, Morocco offers rest-day adventures unlike anything you can find in Western cultures.
As if to confirm my thoughts, the second call to prayer of the day issues forth from a distant mosque and echoes surreally through the gorge around us.
"Ready for more climbing?" Goali asks us.
We answer in the affirmative, and a huge smile spreads across our guide's face. "Rockaine" he says, pointing to the rock. Like cocaine, but better.
Fuelled by the copious amounts of caffeine in the Berber whiskey, we make our way up a short and powerful 5.11a with lots of dynamic moves. In between climbs, we ask Goali how he started climbing in the first place.
He explains that he stumbled upon rock climbing through tourists near his home village in the early 2000s.
"I didn't find climbing," Goali says with his signature smile, "climbing found me."
However it happened, it's clear now that Goali is passionate about his job. He urges us to try more and more routes, happily giving beta, and never once seeming like he's ready to go home.
Though the man clearly enjoys his job, climbing is still a job for Goali, and for most Moroccans who take up the sport.
"In Morocco, climbing for leisure is only for tourists," he explains.
For most Moroccan climbers, the rock is a means of income in a struggling economy. Over half of the population of rural Morocco, where climbing crags are usually located, live in poverty, with few opportunities for steady work. Goali sees climbing as a great opportunity for Moroccans to make ends meet while also doing something healthy, fun, and fulfilling.
That's why he founded the "Escadivers” organization back in 2015. The organization aims to help more and more Moroccans make a living from climbing tourism and stem the immigration of young people to other areas of Morocco. To succeed in this goal, Goali knows it's important to get the word out about Morocco's magnificent crags.
"If Todra Gorge," he says, "had anywhere near the same exposure as famous crags in Europe, it would work wonders for the local economy."
With this in mind, Goali has been doing his best to develop and promote crags all over the country.
"I've opened over 400 routes in Morocco," he tells us with a proud smile, as he pulls the rope down off of the final climb of the day.
After over half a dozen routes, and eight hours of climbing, our day is finally done. Exhausted, we cross the river back into town, delicately hopping between slippery stones, all while carrying our gear and tea paraphernalia. We head to a local restaurant where we share huge tagine dishes, and even more Berber whiskey, with our still cheerful guide.
For us, it's been an amazing day of climbing for leisure. Hopefully, with the hard work of people like Goali, more and more Moroccans, as well as foreigners, can enjoy the same.
Todra Gorge Tick List
La Classique (5.10a)
The most iconic multi-pitch in the gorge! The first five pitches offer good exposure, while the rest are at a lower angle. This climb offers a stunning view of the gorge, and is comfortably bolted.
Qui L'eut Cru? (5.9)
A well-bolted multi-pitch suitable for beginners. All 10 pitches, as well as route finding, are quite straightforward.
Chibania (5.10d)
A seven-pitch dihedral climb on excellent limestone. Located on the Pilier du Couchant sector. This climb is sparsely bolted; we recommend bringing a light rack.
Saracosta (5.10b)
A slabby start that transitions to a steep finish on positive holds. On sector Plage Mansour Left.
Ensalada Metallica (5.11d)
One of the harder but shorter classics in Todra. A steep start followed by technical, thin climbing and, finally, a heroic finish over a steep headwall that requires long, committing moves on great holds. Located on the Petite Gorge Right sector.
Afrique Physique (5.12a)
Slightly overhanging route with very small, but positive, holds. Great for anybody who wants to test their finger strength and endurance.
Beta
How to get there
The nearest international airport is located in the city of Marrakech, seven hours from Todra Gorge if you have a rental car. It is also possible to catch a bus to the nearby town of Tinghir, and from there you can take a cheap shared taxi to the gorge (around $1 USD per person). CTM is the most reliable bus company in Morocco and their buses run from Marrakech once a day. Prepare to pay around $15 USD for a one-way ticket.
Where to stay
There is a lot of accommodation available in the gorge, from basic, affordable guesthouses to luxurious hotels. The average price for a double room, breakfast included, is around $25 USD per night. Auberge Tizgui and Secret Garden are recommended hotels that are equipped to serve climbers. They can help arrange guiding and gear-rentals, and are known to have small perks climbers might find useful, such as hangboards and yoga mats.
For those traveling on a lower budget, guesthouse Dar Almanadir deserves a special mention. Their food and hospitality were the best we experienced during our trip, and the prices were hard to beat.
Where to eat/drink
Almost all of the guesthouses in the gorge serve food, and breakfast is typically included in the room price. A dinner menu that consists of soup, salad, a main course, dessert, and tea costs around $12 USD per person. There are also a number of small grocery stores, where you can buy basic food staples like bread, chocolate, cookies, and fruit.
What to pack
Even the single-pitch routes in the gorge are tall, so bring at least a 70-meter rope and 12 quickdraws. Helmets and sunscreen are mandatory. There is a gear shop, Aventuras Verticales, that also rents out climbing equipment.
Rest day activities
On your rest day you can hike in the mountains above the gorge. There is a four-hour loop trail that takes you through some beautiful desert landscapes.
Good to know
Morocco is a Muslim country, so dress modestly. Wearing long sleeve shirts and long pants in public is recommended. The official language is Arabic, but most Moroccans also speak French. English is usually spoken by people who work in the tourism industry.
For those wishing to hire a guide we recommend contacting a certified guiding company. If you want to explore on your own, you can purchase the Oxford Alpine Club guidebook online before your trip.
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