New Oklahoma City restaurant concept Pachinko to offer fusion of ceviche, sushi

A sushi concept coming soon to the 405 diningscape will draw from a pair of concepts that were ahead of their time.

Back in 2010 when chef Eric Smith opened an offbeat sushi bar called Pachinko Parlor downtown, a Peruvian restaurant called Inca Trail opened.

Pachinko specialized in whimsical sushi rolls that drew from a variety of culinary traditions. Inca Trail featured authentic Peruvian flavors, including traditional ceviche.

A decade later, Inca Trail is long gone and Pachinko Parlor has moved into food hall Parlor OKC, but come early spring Smith and managing partner Marc Cline will infuse the Pachinko brand with Peruvian flavors in a new concept in Nichols Hills.

Pachinko, 7204 N Western Ave., will introduce the 405 diningscape to a fusion of ceviche and sushi from chef Gustavo Risi.

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Risi, who has grown a following doing in-home sushi bar services, promises the ceviche and sushi he and his crew serve will be unlike anything the market has seen much less tasted.

A collision of sushi and ceviche is something I’ve anticipated for years. After all, ceviche tradition is inspired by Peru’s historic connection to seafarers from the Far East.

Chaufas is the term Peruvians use to describe Chinese fare, and tiradito is a style of ceviche that requires sashimi-style knife work. Think spicy, marinated nigiri.

Pachinko will seat guests in either the bar or dining room, but in the back it will feature a chef’s table called Dynasty.

“It’s gonna have its own back entrance and parking,” Smith said, who will be executive chef.

Smith operates a similar private dining room called The Crown Room at VZD’s Restaurant and Grill, which he co-owns.

Smith said Dynasty will operate the same way, but feature different chefs with different specialties.

We’re still 45 to 60 days from the Pachinko debut, but it promises to be a welcome addition to the local sushi-spere after losing top-dog Tsubaki last year.

Sure the loss of Tsubaki meant gaining Private Kitchen, but the crown for best local sushi remains vacated.

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Tokyo Japanese Restaurant represents the old guard, perhaps the original guard for local sushi restaurants. Sushi Neko was integral in growing its popularity. Since 2000, sushi bars and restaurants have popped up in every zip code in the city from high-end haunts like Jimmy B's Culinary and Hand-Krafted to Nhinja and Nhinjo locations with drive-thrus. Many local grocers have even added a sushi counter to existing delis.

Last week, we lost Canton Restaurant, which opened at a time when the city had no sushi. Even Japanese steakhouses were still a few years away.

In markets like Oklahoma City, it's still not uncommon to see a sushi bar attached to a Chinese buffet. Buffets that very often include dishes never heard of in China.

Nevertheless, the current state of sushi options in the market shows progress.

Pachinko and Jimmy B’s are signs the local sushi game has reached a milestone. Once a certain standard is reached, experimentation is inevitable.

When Inca Trail closed in 2014, Peruvian dining options stagnated. Since then, we’ve gone from two Naylamp locations to one. It is the last exclusively Peruvian restaurant. Zarate’s in Edmond, Mamaveca in Norman, and La Brasa each have strong foundations in the flavors of Peru. Monica’s Lounge also features Peruvian fare.

Smith said Pachinko will also feature a full bar with Japanese whiskeys and specialty cocktails. No word on whether Inca Cola will be available.

Pachinko takes over a space long occupied by sandwich shops. Most recently it was a Subway; before that it was a Sub Stop.

Chad Burum is doing the renovations, which include a dining room with a golden floor. Melea Smith, owner of Tallulah Lou and Jackson Dean + Co next door, consulted on design and colors.

This article originally appeared on Oklahoman: New Oklahoma City restaurant concept offers ceviche, sushi fusion