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“Humpbacks off the bow – all guests to the bridge,” a voice sang over the intercom at 7am on the first morning of our expedition. Blinking away sleep, I rushed onto the deck in my dressing gown and a brilliant-white glare filled my eyes through panoramic windows. Metres in front of our yacht, a pod of four humpback whales were feasting on krill, surrounded by giant icebergs, the Antarctic Peninsula looming on the horizon. Close encounters such as this would quickly become the norm during my week