Ottolinger, founded by Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, showcased its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Set in a gallery in central Paris, guests were found sitting in a pile of mattresses, expectant for what was about to come.
The absence of decoration in the room accentuated the vibrancy models brought to the runway. Prowling down to a pumping techno beat, the line-up unveiled a powerful, dark energy. "To look back is to die," opens the show notes — the SS23 range is about being open to the now and never slowing down.
Bösch and Gadient favor sartorial experimentation through layered skirts and trousers, matching trompe l’œil pieces, sweeping dresses, skinny thigh-high boots, pointed heels, and motor jackets that come in an array of materials and styles. The SS23 Ottolinger woman is ready to take a plane, a motorbike, an F1 car. She is unapologetic, expressive, emotional — she shows femininity unfastened from rigidities of gender.
Details include metallic studs, signature cut-outs, loose straps, leather-based recycled polyester, tantalizing mesh, lace, crinkle-effect accessories, rubber, neoprene and chunky twisted sunglasses that provide a welcome jolt of visual vitality. Electric hues of reds, blues and greens contrast against the minimal shading and toning of the ripped-up silhouettes.
The collection maintains high-peak cut-outs, industrial elements and signature deconstructed tailoring, but brings a newer, more subverted spirit, inspired by summer girl boss ebullience. "You are ready. You will not slow down. And now you truly understand that old Greek myth; you will never look back," finishes the show's press release.
Peep the collection at the gallery above. While you're here, check out Hypebae's Fashion Week SS23 trend spotlight.