Filling former Harold’s on 87th, Hot Chi Chicken & Cones serves Nashville hot chicken with a Middle Eastern edge
When a new Nashville hot chicken spot has an item called the “Popeyes Ain’t S---” sandwich, you certainly have to admire the nerve.
But while most will focus on the name of the dish at Hot Chi Chicken & Cones, I couldn’t take my eye off the onions.
I’ve eaten something like 90 different fried chicken sandwiches over the past few years, so it takes a lot to surprise me. But just as I was about to chomp down on the enormous offering from this Chatham restaurant on Chicago’s South Side, I stopped to admire the tangle of onions just above the freshly fried chicken. Were those dark red specks on the onions sumac, an ingredient far more at home in Middle Eastern restaurants?
“Yes, it’s sumac,” said Amer Abdullah, who co-owns the restaurant with his brother, Mutaz Abdullah, and Kinan Moufti.
In fact, that’s just the beginning. “There’s also toum, which is a garlic sauce that’s also one of the most popular spreads in the Middle East,” Amer Abdullah said. “And the red sauce is a harissa glaze.”
What’s a Nashville hot chicken restaurant in Chatham doing with so many Middle Eastern influences?
According to Abdullah, the idea for Hot Chi began at Cedars Mediterranean Kitchen (1206 E. 53rd St.) in nearby Hyde Park. “My dad started Cedars,” Abdullah said. “He passed on a couple years back, so I had to help take it over.” Abdullah brought in chef Amado Lopez, an acclaimed industry veteran who worked for years with Rick Bayless and the late Charlie Trotter.
Along with putting his spin on Cedars menu, chef Lopez started experimenting with the idea of a fried chicken wrap, combining the crispy meat with ingredients commonly found at Cedars, like those sumac onions. “We loved the wrap, but I couldn’t ignore the fried chicken wars,” Abdullah said. That’s when they swapped the wrap for a brioche bun and decided to open their own Nashville hot fried chicken spot, albeit one with Middle Eastern and Mexican influences.
At first, they had trouble finding a storefront on the South Side that worked for them, but Mutaz Abdullah eventually came upon an open spot on 87th Street and put in an offer.
Turns out the space has some serious fried chicken history as it used to house Harold’s #55, one of the most storied locations of the fried chicken chain. (When Katie Couric interviewed Chance the Rapper in 2017, the interview happened there.)
Amer Abdullah initially hesitated over opening a new fried chicken restaurant at that specific location. As the Tribune covered last year, owner Percy Billings had to close Harold’s #55 during the pandemic because he couldn’t afford a rent increase. Abdullah said he wondered if the neighborhood would welcome Hot Chi after a Black-owned business was forced out.
There’s also the issue of Nashville hot chicken itself. The full history of this fiery dish is wild and worth looking into (the oft-told legend includes a spurned lover’s act of spicy revenge), but though it originated in the Black neighborhoods of Nashville, many of the people who have profited from the dish haven’t been Black.
Abdullah is well aware of these issues. “There was this trend years ago where Arabs would come from the Middle East, open up liquor stores in Black neighborhoods, and kind of be a death to the community,” Abdullah said. “Brown dudes did not get a good reputation.”
But he’s also proud of the South Side and wanted to stay in the area. “I talked a lot with my Black friends about doing this,” Abdullah said. “We are Brown-owned and Muslim. I want to bring something to the community and do it the right way.”
He was already friendly with Billings, so he spoke to him about the move before connecting with the alderman of the 21st ward, Howard B. Brookins Jr. When Hot Chi opened in early October, it hosted a community event the alderman attended where they handed out free sandwiches, brought in DJs from the area and had a COVID-19 testing truck. He has also hired workers from the area, Abdullah said.
Billings, meanwhile, continues to operate Harolds #55 Express from within a nearby Shell gas station.
When I dropped by Hot Chi, the colorful shop was packed with customers and delivery drivers waiting for orders. Along with the “Popeyes ain’t S---” chicken sandwich ($10), Hot Chi also offers the Hot Honey Butta’ chicken sandwich ($10), which Abdullah said has actually been the better seller. The shop also serves Nashville hot chicken tenders ($9) and an offering of six chicken wings topped with Alabama white sauce ($12).
Abdullah is also excited about the sides. While crunchy crinkle-cut fries come with each sandwich, you can also order a tangy buttermilk mac n’ cheese ($4) with crunchy panko on top, and grilled corn elote ($4). “My favorite side is the elote,” Abdullah said. “That’s straight from chef Lopez.”
Drinks include bright pink watermelon sugar ($4), featuring fresh-squeezed watermelon and lemons, along with peachy sweet tea ($4). “That last one is for me,” Abdullah said. “I was always drinking peach Snapple as a kid.”
So far, Abdullah said, the response has been positive. “It’s been fast and furious,” he said. “We had this cool grand opening. We’re still the new kid on the block. But we’re seeing so many regulars, which is great.”
100 W. 87th St., hot-chi.net
nkindelsperger@chicagotribune.com
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