Real Talk: WTF Is My Skin Barrier and Why Does It Matter?
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Oops, I did it again: I got too excited about my new chemical exfoliant and basically stripped my face off (ooh, baby, baby). Sound familiar? Exactly. But as innocent as some itchy, irritated, or burning skin may seem, it’s actually a sign that you damaged your skin barrier—which, reminder, is the “shield” that determines how your skin looks and feels. And once you mess with it (especially consistently), it can lead to breakouts, rashes, premature wrinkles, and more, which is why every dermatologist will tell you to go slow with at-home peels and retinol creams.
Still, even the most devout skincare enthusiasts mess up sometimes, and thankfully, a compromised skin barrier is possible to fix—as long as you know what to do. Which is why I consulted with board-certified dermatologists Dana Stern, MD; Dhaval Bhanusali, MD; and Chris Tomassian, MD; to break down what your skin barrier is and how to heal it, along with the best tips and products to try asap. Let’s get started.
What is your skin barrier?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin that serves as a protective shield for your face. Basically, the entire purpose of your skin barrier is to protect your skin from environmental stressors, irritation, and inflammation, while holding onto all the good stuff (like moisture, moisture, and more moisture).
Technically, your skin barrier is called the stratum corneum, which is the most superficial layer of your epidermis—think: the top bun on your hamburger. The stratum corneum (skin barrier) is filled with a whole system of cells and lipids that form a barrier to keep your skin healthy, says Dr. Stern, who likens it to a brick wall. “The cells, aka corneocytes, are the bricks in your skin barrier, while the mortar is made of various lipids, like cholesterol and ceramides,” she explains. And each piece is vital in keeping the ecosystem of your face happy.
What destroys the skin barrier?
Sadly, your skin barrier is way more fragile than a brick wall, and can easily be “destroyed” by environmental factors (sun exposure, pollution, smoking, extreme weather variations), physical damage (over-exfoliating your face or using harsh/irritating products), certain medical conditions (like diabetes), and genetics. Even your age can affect your barrier: “Ceramide levels decrease significantly as we age," says Dr. Stern, “so our skin’s ability to hold onto moisture eventually becomes compromised too."
Obviously, some of these factors are out of your control (see: aging, pollution, desert heat, and freezing winters), but generally, the most severe damage will come from using too-harsh products, like gritty exfoliators, intense acids, and drying sulfates. “When your skin barrier doesn’t have an effective balance of fats, the moisture and hydration that makes your skin look supple, full, and plump will not be maintained,” says Dr. Stern.
How do you know if your skin barrier is damaged?
If your skin barrier is damaged, your skin might be dry, flakey, sensitive, irritated, tingly, burning, and/or itchy. You may also be dealing with rashes and inflammation, since a damaged skin barrier increases your risk of infections and dermatitis, says Dr. Bhanusali, as well as flare-ups of rosacea, eczema, and keratosis pilaris. Another tell-tale sign? “When you use a moisturizer on your skin that you typically tolerate, but it starts to irritate or burn on application,” says Dr. Tomassian.
Does your skin barrier heal itself?
A damaged skin barrier can usually heal itself within two weeks, depending on the damage, but only if you stop all exfoliators (even acids and retinoids) and switch to gentle, soothing products instead, says Dr. Tomassian. If you keep up the same routine that led to a damaged barrier in the first place, you’re not going to see results (sry). But with time and a simpler routine, your skin barrier will begin to function like normal again, fending off irritants and potential stressors to keep your skin moisturized and healthy.
Should I exfoliate if my skin barrier is damaged?
You should avoid exfoliating with chemical and physical exfoliants (including retinol, AHAs and BHAs, and vitamin C) for two to three weeks once you notice that your skin barrier is damaged, says Dr. Tomassian. After the inflammation, flakes, and irritation have subsided for at least one full week, you can add back one gentle chemical exfoliant (like polyhydroxy acids, PHAs, the mildest of acids) one day a week for another two or three weeks.
How do you get a healthy skin barrier?
The key to a healthy skin barrier is healing it with a simple skincare routine and loading up on rich moisturizers. Stick to a bland and hydrating routine for at least two to three weeks before adding exfoliation back in once or twice a week (in general, even with a healthy skin barrier, you should only use exfoliants three times a week max).
Your skincare routine should include a gentle face wash in the morning and night, followed by a hydrating face serum, and then—most importantly—a rich, barrier-repair cream. If your skin feels tight and dry, you can layer on an occlusive ointment (hi, slugging!) at the end to seal all that hydration and water into your skin.
Ideally, your skincare routine should be filled with products that contain barrier-repairing ceramides and humectants, says Dr. Stern, adding that topical ceramides mimic your skin’s moisturizing functions to hold onto hydration, while humectants (like hyaluronic acid and glycerin) “pull water molecules from the dermis toward the epidermis to keep your skin moisturized.”
You should also prioritize ingredients already found in your skin, like squalane and urea, or ingredients that mimic those lipids, like jojoba oil. And, as always, try to avoid products filled with fragrance, essential oils, and sulfates, says Dr. Stern, which can irritate your skin and break down your skin barrier over time.
Of course, even the best, most hydrating routine can’t magically fix all skin-barrier issues, especially if you’re dealing with cystic acne, rosacea, or eczema. Which means your best—and quickest—course of action will be to see a dermatologist who can customize your routine and prescribe topical medications to calm flare-ups asap.
Can a skin barrier be permanently damaged?
It’s highly unlikely that you would permanently damage your skin barrier through normal activities and skincare routines alone. However, it is possible for your skin barrier to be predisposed to breaking down based on genetics, age, prolonged stress, and environmental factors. This is why it’s so important to have a moisturizing skincare routine (that consists of a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, and a rich moisturizer) to keep your skin barrier healthy and more resistant to damage.
How long does it take to improve your skin barrier?
How long it takes to improve your skin barrier is dependent on your skin type and how damaged your skin barrier is. If you just went overboard with a face peel or a scrub one time? You should be on the mend within two weeks after sticking to a bland routine. But if you've spent months accidentally breaking down your skin barrier through harsh products, stress, or environmental factors, you might need to change routine for one to two months to get your skin back to normal.
Final thoughts:
If your skin feels dehydrated and inflamed, you might be dealing with a damaged skin barrier. But don’t worry, with a simplified skincare routine (complete with a rich moisturizer) and some time, your skin will be back to normal in a few weeks. But never underestimate the power of your dermatologist when you’re dealing with a compromised skin barrier. Trust: They’ve got your back (and hella moisturizer samples).
Meet the experts:
Dana Stern, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.
Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery in New York, NY. He’s served as a formula consultant for many skincare brands, including Neutrogena, EltaMD, and CeraVe.
Chris Tomassian, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of The Dermatology Collective in Glendora, CA.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with four years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from sunburned lips to whiteheads. She’s an authority in all skincare categories but is an expert when it comes to skin barrier, thanks to interviewing dermatologists about repairing her own damaged skin barrier for years. She regularly tests and analyzes skin barrier repair products for efficacy, while working with the industry’s top dermatologists to assess new formulas and brands.
Jesa Marie Calaor was the beauty editor at HearstMade for over a year and has been writing beauty articles for over seven years, including wearing your sunscreen indoors and reviewing the Dyson straightener. She researched and interviewed experts about skin barrier.
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